'Those really are jaguar prints'

Chapter 17

Both the soft sand of Tortuguero AND evidence of jaguars close by!

Sweat poured down the back of my neck as I reached the edge of the jungle. It was only 6am. But I was here, on the black sands of Tortuguero beach at last. My first steps onto the sand marked a milestone. For most of the past year I fretted about that sand: Could I walk miles up and down …